I have inherited my car – now it is 20 years old, few kilometres/miles, passes its TÜV (state inspection) every 2 years without any problems. Here we go again: gas prices are spiking and sales of hybrid are zooming. I understand that I can unsubscribe at any time. I drive a 2011 Honda CRV, bought new, and feel no guilt…..however , I bought a honda with the expectation of going at least 250,000……it really depends on the make and model, not all cars are built for longevity….my 2001 Ford Escape needed a new tranny at 60,000, my 1992 Ford Explorer needed a new tranny at 90,000…..Hondas and Toyotas have a reputation for going to 250,000 miles…. I know I saw the same big mileage drop at about the same time you are and replacing that small battery took care of most of it. On my 05 Prius and now on my 10 Prius, I’ve used Michilin X’s and gotten equal or better mileage than stock with more improvement once the tires wore in. Sometimes the per tank average jumps or drops, and that makes me wonder what exactly I did differently to affect the mileage, but I don’t spend much time thinking about it. In certain situations, such as the last mile or so of your trip, or if you’re just moving the car from one part of the driveway to the other, the all-electric mode is more advisable. All your data supports the conclusion that used cars depreciate less with age, so buying an “old” used car is a better financial decision than buying a “young” one. We have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma we bought in 2017 with 160k and it was babied by one owner. We are delighted and we expect it to last us another 20 years! Why do old Prius get so much dismissal, would a 2008 Honda Civic be a better bet since its cheaper and I dont have to worry about battery? I love going for rides with him, but holy moly is he bleeding money from the depreciation. and the explosion pushes it backwards. A little disappointing to me, but I drive in mountainous areas and that always costs extra fuel. How are using those buttons to maximum benefit? I am using studded snow tires till warm weather. Question: I was wondering whether you had any experience in using the B-mode in a more recent Prius. I’ll bet we can’t get it under 40 mpg under any circumstances when it is in “D” mode. In any case you should pick a top speed that you will attain and try to increase speed slowly so that speed is found at the top of the hill. The inverter boosts the battery’s 200 volts to about 500 volts for the electric motors and converts the battery’s direct current to alternating current (similar to what comes out of a household outlet). I paid her off as quick as I could. All of the arrows on the Energy Optimization system display on the dashboard should show the power flow going from the tires to the hybrid battery. The B gear should be used only if you are going down a long hill. But really, the main thing, is the colder, denser air. That said – you mention the cost of annual inspections, and at least here in CA, if you buy new, you don’t have to get any inspections done at all for the first few years of the vehicle’s life. Toyota’s, Honda’s, and Ford trucks, avoid everything else if you value your money. 1) I’m a firm believer that the 100,000 mile mark stimulates a significant drop in value. One question for you: how do you factor in the updated safety features of newer (used) cars? I drive it on long 1500 mile+ road trips a few times a year without any worries. On most hills, this engine speed will not be reached and the engine will not, therefore, operate at peak efficiency. You burn lots of gas going up and cover a short distance, but then you can go for miles not burning any. I do almost all city driving. One other thing for people to consider-I bought a 2013 Nissan Leaf with 10.5k miles on it for a little under $9,500 (and paid all cash). P.S. Not only do you waste money buying it you also are much more likely the foul your engine. Thanks, again!! Any more info or testing on the MPG improvment due to the 89 Octane? I’m sorry, but some cars simply perform better over time than other cars. And the downhill stretches will give you a chance to recharge your battery through regenerative braking. Since we’ve owned our 2010 Toyota Prius the longest, I’m going to use it as the example car today. I’m almost done paying off a car that I ought brand new & let’s just say I’ll never make that mistake again! Anything over 42 MPH and the engine continues to stay on. Going below 42 MPH can cause the vehicle to go into Glide mode, which is another system entirely. Please try again. I still haven’t decided, but I appreciate this article to support all the reasons to buy an older, higher mile, pristine car. Although the Prius is classified as a mid-sized vehicle, it is designed primarily for the urban environment. Totally agree with your thoughts here, though I came to the conclusion via slightly different maths when looking to replace my car recently! For unknown reason even when very careful, my 2006 Prius rarely averaged over 50 mpg, and the dealer could not help. However, the interior/exterior of our Pilot have taken a beating. I think the previous question was about "braking Mode", not battery only. Funny thing is, I made a spreadsheet before I even bought the car to see how much money I would be saving over a 6 year span compared to driving my (now sold) 18mpg Toyota Tacoma, and even WITH this $5,000 repair and TWO $4,000 big battery replacements (which I figured may need to be done within these 6 years), I will still save a minimum of $18,000 over that timeframe driving the Prius instead of the Tacoma (and that’s if gas stays at $3 bucks a gallon)! They say the computer says nothing is wrong, so it's fine. I agree to receive emails from Green Car Reports.

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