I drove several hundred miles to collect it, but once I got that home, I found that while all looked well, the floors were aftermarket cheap replacements - there's a HUGE disparity between top quality and budget panels. However, a couple of things to keep in mind: 1) The car is old, and was made in 1972, at a time when the avocado had only just been invented and actual people with actual tools put things together in factories. I wanted it to breathe. This is where things got really serious, as I decided it best to remove the body from the floor pan to allow better access to repair. They probably all had moustaches and long hair, smoked cigars and wore flares. In a Bug, this is supposed to be bolted together. Kitman Motors manufactures premium replica do-it-yourself kits for both the independent and professional builder. While I was doing so much work on the chassis, I decided that the gearbox needed to be adjusted. The first picture shows how I got access. Stripping the Beetle; Body Work ; Chevy 350 Engine and 2004R Trans; Our S10 Chassis; Cost of Project; Links & Resources. This custom tube frame for our Coupe and Speedster bodies uses a standard ball joint beam in the front and a modified VW IRS torsion assembly in the rear. This is to mop up your tears of woe as you realise that you are most definitely "gonna need a bigger boat..." A good quality welder. Thanks! Designed to keep your system in top shape, Created by professionals to meet your requirements. I'm sure a block of wood could be made to suit the purpose too. 6 months ago You do get what you pay for, and while £100 a floor pan can seem like a bargain the hassle involved getting them fitted and the resulting not-quite-right look will leave you feeling like you wasted your time. Two points to note here: 1) Mild steel is the correct material for the cradle. Panel beating hammer and dollyFire extinguisher - a big topic but use a foam one of you can or water. Mine is a little agricultural, I made this with 5mm plate steel and a plasma cutter. Did you make this project? Even metal of this thickness will warp, and you REALLY don't want that with something this critical. 6 months ago. Mendeola's lineage of ultra performance products dates back decades, and now you can finally own some of the most ingenious suspension components to ever hit the street. It's hard to ignite, but even harder to extinguish. So, I cut the framehead bottom plate off with a plasma cutter (an angle grinder would have done nicely too), and this is where I really found issues. Here, it is not needed. It is tempting to overlap with repairs like this, but it's a little lazy and just creates water traps. Yep, it was 15mm too far back. The body, even more so!! Wow. Welding wire - 0.6mm is plenty for this work, or 0.8mm if you go steady. This statement is really important: If you must use this material, clean the galvanised coating off the area you are going to weld thoroughly with a flap wheel. I then cut the donor framehead off, making sure it was cut in such a way as to be a few inches LONGER than the old one (that is, taking more of the centre tunnel with it than what I cut off the old chassis). high quality is the only thing we know. I would NOT recommend seam welding, as the amount of heat would warp the floors and the amount of gas and wire you would use would be frightening! This let me have a really good look - and the chassis needed a major restoration. Firstly, apply a liberal dose of seam sealer to every single weld and join. That was something I could rectify. I sleep, mostly. The surface finish is a nice textured finish that hides a multitude of sins, but looks like it was done in the factory by those guys with the long hair and avocados, though by now those men have probably developed into quite serious balding chaps, the kind who read magazines about maths... Now was the time to reassemble the floorpan to check suspension geometry, and to make sure the gearbox sat correctly. :-). Best of all, nothing was on fire and nobody died! The thickness of the steel was fine, but the quality of the pressing was very poor. Don't just dive in mob-handed without honing in your welder's settings. This product is made of high-quality materials to sere you for years to come. on Introduction, You don't fool around nice job I don't know of a better one love to see the final of the job.stay safe and good luck! I cut off the old hand brake brackets, and selected a point suitably far forward of the gearshift to accommodate a new hand brake bracket. If you weld galvanised coating, you will end up getting attacked by what I can only describe as toxic snow. Now that I was done moving hand brakes around, the time had come to put the centre tunnel to bed. Angle grinder with a large selection of cutting discs, grinding discs and flap wheels. This is where the front suspension bolts to the chassis. It's a nice balance between being easily worked, but forgiving to hot welds. The first five pictures here speak far louder than any words I can type. So things won't have been absolutely perfect when it was made, especially if was made on a Friday afternoon and it was Big Nigel's turn to buy the beers at the pub. The pan resembles a reinforced VW Beetle pan useing a standard VW pedal assembly, has guide tubes for the clutch and accelerator tubes built into the reinforced tunnel. What's more, I decided to get the jetwash on the new chassis to see what was lurking under the paint. Please, use mild steel if you at all can. The body was ok, apart from the lower 3" or so which also needed extensive repair. Very, very cool. On mine, it was bolted, welded, glued, bonded, and bodged. The body has a little adjustment when it gets bolted onto the chassis, so there's a little room for small errors here, but make sure the chassis is the correct length with the framehead in the final position (picture one shows the correct dimensions). Do it once, do it right, don't try to set a time limit, only spend what you can afford and always buy the best you can afford. Custom Builds Services Tech Contact Us Category Superior Design. This frame is engineered to take a little more motor for our customers that enjoy pushing their cars a little harder. Welding mask - an auto darkening helmet with a grind setting is best here. This isn't a problem, but I wanted to leave it to preserve the journey the car has been on and have it "honest". It was only supposed to be a temporary one, I planned to have some steel laser cut later to make a nicer one, but since you can't see it I keep forgetting! Bright LED magnetic torch - positioning a good quality light helps a great deal. Body panels - I cannot stress enough how important buying the best quality panels you can here if you aren't making your own from scratch. Welding magnetsAssorted drill bitsI also had a pneumatic metal punch which really helped, but drills or a hand punch will do. This was not a smart way of working on a car, but it was to allow me a clear, quick look to be sure it was even safe to jack up. The centre tunnel sported a crack at the front end, the "napoleon's hat" (that is the hump you see where the floors end in picture four) was totally rotten, and the floors were looking pretty grim too.

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